IMG Walks Away but Can Australian Fashion Week Survive the Split?
Melissa Hoyer
When I was a full-on, long-time fashion director of newspapers followed by digital (30+ something years later – eeek!) and founder/EP/host of Australia’s first fashion TV show, Fox Fashion, and still a regular media/TV/radio commentator, Australian Fashion Week used to be a much talked-about, newsworthy and influential event.
Work life has moved me in a much more diverse path now, but boy, Fashion Week was THE annual must-cover ‘style’ event. And I still remember it starting in 1996!
Frock week was a melting pot/hunting ground for some of the best new names in Australian fashion. It was special.
Particularly in its early years when founders Simon Lock and Marguerite Julian could coerce a plethora of international buyers and fashion media who were flown to and hosted in Sydney by the NSW government & event organisers.
To be honest, some internationals just came for a free holiday – going to minimal shows and spending more time at Bondi as opposed to backstage – but there were always a handful of actual deadline workers & buyers who would make up for the fashion freeloaders.
It has to be said the week was always meticulously orchestrated, especially over the last 12 years by the likes of fashion events company NAC & boss, Nikki Andrews. Unfortunately, as the weeks presence and power slowly began to dissipate, it was bad news to read 2 weeks ago that IMG – the most recent major naming sponsor and event organiser – had decided to remove itself from involvement.
Fashion Week, for the first say 16 years was really, really special as it was a stong industry event, so invitations and tickets were dispersed accordingly, to those who could give something back to the whole week. As everyone in business knows – there’s no such thing as a free lunch.
To be honest, along the way it started to become a diluted version of what a ‘Fashion Week’ should be. Globally, frock weeks are about showcasing trends, styles and a fusion of pop culture fashion moments that will figure in the upcoming season.
The days when designers flew out extraordinary guests to either walk in their show or perform were great: Linda Evangelista for Alex Perry; Jade Jagger, Jerry Hall, Nicky Hilton & Sophie Dahl for Charlie Brown; my great friend Kristy Clark (nee Hinze) for Tigerlily; tsubi, who invited a few hundred rats to scurry down its runway and Macy Grey, who closed Marc Keighery’s show for getting the whole audience up as she sang ‘I Try’.
Sensational, pop culture moments garnered major headlines along with ‘serious’ verdicts and wraps as well as ‘sexy’ news coverage
Those first 16 years, all forms of media couldn’t get enough of Fashion Week – it was page one after page one with radio interviews darted throughout the day and nights and sometimes TV news even ‘led’ their evening bulletins.
I remember spending much time at one of the fashion weeks with the late and legendary Peter Harvey who had even been corralled as Nine’s Fashion correspondent for the week – he loved it!
With changes in naming sponsors, the fast march of social media and the physical cost of young designers handing out big bucks to put on shows, the pace changed quite dramatically.
Australian Fashion Week went from from being something that was desirable and aspirational to (often) some days of wannabes turning up to some of the more recent ‘weeks’ wearing free frocks, sinking back as much free alcohol as they could and grabbing very generous showbags that were all Insta-credited accordingly.
Just one of my wrap columns ‘back then’
None of us, including those from creative industries should live in the past – draw from it and reminisce about it, yes – but not assume that things are ever going to be like they were. That’s just not how life works.
Unfortunately many of the innovative and exciting factors the week once had (hello Akira, Collette Dinnigan, Zimmermann, Easton Pearson, Carla Zampatti, Romance Was Born, Kirrilly Johnston. Ten Pieces, AJE, Tigerlily and so many more – just like IMG now – have moved on.
Fashion Week has had a number of incarnations and I remember waaaay back going to the first week, when it was based at a buzzy Circular Quay. I continued to cover for, I think around 25 years, apart from the last couple when Covid got me one year and a major travel opportunity another. By that stage too, the wannabes were out-ranking the will bee’s.
The Mercedes frock week era
Fortunately, I always enjoyed and still do revel in the pop culture element of fashion week and the zeitgeist moments it created, but as I evolved, the commentary and critique of fashion and how it either mirrored or fitted into the current zeitgeist just changed.
And humbly, for me the interest in how it was happening now – full of uninfluential influencers wrestling for a front seat – just kind of waned.
You just have to know when to hold ‘em and when to fold them.
Whatever way Australian Fashion Week comes back, it needs a total overhaul. Does it become a total public-driven event, where tickets are sold and where each collection is available to buy straight away?
Sure, making it like a Melbourne, Brisbane Perth or Adelaide fashion festival would take away any kind of international cachet but along with the ever-changing media metamorphosis, combined with an effectively ‘seasonless’ state of the fashion industry, that is probably that way the week needs to go.
Life & the fashion biz business has changed and if a designer chooses to do a runway show they want to do it on their terms, in their own time and without any kind of restraints from a bigger picture organisation. Whichever way – everyone involved in it and even just on the outskirts wants it to thrive and survive.
Meanwhile …
IMG (the most recent naming sponsor of AFW who, as I just mentioned, has just finished up its custodianship) announced the winners of the 2024 Australian Fashion Laureate, honouring outstanding accomplishments in Australian fashion.
Having been a part of that judging panel for a number of years & hosting the actual awards event a few times, I have no idea who does all of that now but do know the laureate was established in 2008 in partnership with the NSW Government.
Per a media release, the 2024 winners were announced at a lunch at Sydney’s Bennelong Restaurant:
Designer of the Year, presented by Shark Beauty: Lesleigh Jermanus, ALÈMAIS
Emerging Designer of the Year, presented by Pandora: Gabriella Pereira, Beare Park
Indigenous Designer of the Year, presented by BYHEALTH: Grace Lillian Lee
Sustainable Designer of the Year, presented by The Volte: Laura May and Hannah Gibbs, Nagnata
Carla Zampatti Award for Excellence in Leadership: Andie Halas, Thread Together
Australian Fashion Laureate for Lifetime Achievement: Stephen Bennett
“The Australian Fashion Laureate provides an important platform for honouring the creative excellence and achievements of the Australian Fashion industry, highlighting the most noteworthy innovations and conversations shaping our industry,” said Natalie Xenita, Vice President-Managing Director of IMG Fashion Events and Properties, Asia-Pacific.
(Interesting read: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-week/bof-joins-forces-australian-fashion-week-sydney-2025/)
“We are thrilled to bring the industry together for our final event to celebrate the accomplishments of Australian designers and industry leaders who have been the driving force behind Australian fashion’s cultural and economic impact this year.”
Australian Fashion Laureate winners were determined by a panel of 35, comprised of media, buyers, stylists, communications professionals, designers and business and retail executives.
The Australian Fashion Laureate is supported by the NSW Government through Destination NSW.
